Eyes On The Andes: Inka Trek- Day three, the mighty jungle

Wake-up call: 5 a.m.

Altitude: Runquracay campsite, 3600 metres down to Wiñaywayna campsite, 2700 metres.

A very mellow day-- comparatively speaking-- which began early and oddly. I awoke before 5 am, and walked to the bathroom to brush my teeth, with my trendy head lamp guiding my way in the morning darkness. Upon arriving, I realized there were three porters, from another tour group, sleeping on the flat floor in front of the bathroom. It was quite a shock, as I had just emerged from a warm sleeping bag stuffed in an equally comfortable tent. Again one of the disturbing paradoxes... The trek began-- downwards, thankfully-- through the thick and pretty jungle. We played the game Twenty Questions pretty much incessantly. Among the top picks: The sky, Jesus, a llama, Obi Won Kenobi (spelling?), Whitney Houston and the Emperor Atahualpa.

We arrived at Wiñaywayna campsite around 1p.m. It was our first encounter with electricity, cement and so.many.other.backpackers since the beginning of the trip. Definitely the least pleasant area, but the warm showers were a welcome perk. Wiñaywayna is the name of an Inka ruin thankfully a few minutes away from the campsite, and it means "Forever young" in Quechua. Yes we sang the song non-stop once we learned its significance. The ruins-- or "important archaeological site, don't say ruins," as our tour guide stressed-- are probably my favourite so far. A Temple to the Rainbow (yes, the Inkas spearheaded the gay pride movement) looks out over dangerously vertical agricultural terraces that overlook apus (sacred mountains). The peaks are overgrown by the jungle, and there are waterfalls everywhere. I just sat. For at least an hour, trying to digest so much beauty. Later, after a ridiculously over-the-top meal, our group played cards and we shuffled back to our tents at the ripe time of 9pm to gear up for the final day...